If there is one walk which typifies the various landscapes and character of the northern Elenydd, then this might be it. From the map, it looks like the route passes through quite a lot of dull forest, and yet this walk features almost continuous views, interest and very varied landscapes, which even surprised me on the recce. Once again, we encounter the dramatic mountainous upper Ystwyth Valley, then the open windswept moorland over Pen y Garn, and finally a hugely enjoyable easy amble through woodland, forest, pastures and small lanes to complete the varied menu; views in some places are obviously subject to the cyclical programme of felling and replanting by Natural Resources Wales. There is a somewhat awkward section (at Point 6) where the going is distinctly hard work; it is not all that clear whether we are technically on an allowed way, and the farmers hereabouts seem particularly keen on barbed wire fences. Pen y Garn itself is nothing to write home about as a “mountain” which it officially is, at 610 m altitude. But don’t let these things put you off…this is amazing, beautiful countryside, not to be missed!
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of starting point :
To reach the starting point from the Aberystwyth direction, take the road from Devil’s Bridge/Pontarfynach from alongside the Hafod Hotel to Cwmystwyth. Drive through the village, and about 1 km further on, at the first ruined building of the Ystwyth mine on the left side of the road, park at the layby on the river side of the road where there is a seat for admiring the view of the river below. This is also the starting point for the walk over Domen Milwyn on this website.
Cross the road and take the obvious path diagonally up the very steep hillside, which is part of the Borth-Pontrhydfendigaid long distance path. After 200m, the path hairpins left to form a zig-zag and keeps going steeply uphill until a broken-down wall is reached coming up from the left, and the gradient very gradually eases.
You will see the slightly craggy hump of Graig y Ddalfa to your right, and it is a matter of taste how to get there via a steep, ‘off-piste’ ascent. It is probably best to leave the path and head off to the right towards the summit about 100m beyond where you first reached the wall. This will be well before the path arrives at the level bwlch and bends round to the right. The tussocks are small and manageable and the pull up is not far, but the ground is steep. On the recce, we took the prominent sheep path that skirts round the base of the hump to the right, overlooking the very steep drop down to the valley, which was great, then turned left up the crag. But only do this if you don’t mind finishing with a short, rocky, slippery semi-scramble.
However you get there, this grassy top is a wonderful vantage point, high above the valley, but this is not quite the true summit! To reach the highest point, follow the obvious wide ridge running NNE…decide for yourself which is the highest point on the way…there’s no marker! Keep going along the ridge... the way eventually descends somewhat and reaches an ill-defined quad bike track which crosses its path. Take a left turn here, following this track downhill, back to the official path at a lower level.
- The path is a bit boggy here after wet weather, and there is a small stream to jump across, but it becomes very clear and easy to follow and fairly level too…until close to the farm where the fence you have been following suddenly takes a 90 degree turn to the left. The Right of Way carries straight on over a hump with little indication. It is easy to go wrong here, where the path has been diverted to avoid the farm, and carries on above it.
- Now the path is a bit vague, but continues up to a fork, where you take the left option onto a track. The track joins a very small tarmac lane, which you continue along until it gets to a hairpin bend.
- Keep going in the same direction…you are now on a rather overgrown grassy track, that doesn’t seem promising...at all. At first It gets more and more overgrown as you continue, with some boggy patches to be negotiated, and you wonder if you have come the right way. I have to say I am uncertain whether this is a public byway at all, but I’m not sure that anyone would be too worried if you walk along it. If there were any other sensible option to avoid this stretch, I would suggest it, but there isn’t. It soon improves somewhat, and opens out. You must walk along here for about 500 m from the tarmac lane hairpin before you get to a point on the track where you enter Access Land, and your legal rights are clear.
- Now you reach a confluence of tracks, and your way is very clear and easy. It meanders and zig-zags around, easy to follow, rising steadily for some way with really wonderful views as it ascends in the direction of the Pen y Garn summit.
- There comes a point where you can branch right on a lesser track to cut off a hairpin loop. This is well worth taking, and persevering, as there is an openable gate through the barbed wire fence further on to get back onto the main track. There is a somewhat confusing network of tracks up here, with an abundance of annoying barbed wire fences, but now at least you can see your main hill in the distance, Pen y Garn. The landscape feels like beautiful windswept moorland.
- Be sure to take the more left hand track heading towards the hill rather than the one more to the right that serves Cefn Croes wind farm. It is an easy walk on the track to the top, where you will see a stone shelter and trig pillar at 610 m altitude next to the track. On the recce, it was easy to access the summit, and I hope it stays that way. Notwithstanding the mess of fences everywhere, and the huge wind turbines, the views all round are excellent.
- From the summit, keep heading in the same direction as before, slightly east of north, keeping the huge turbines of Cefn Croes wind farm close by over to your right. The track soon peters out and becomes a path descending more steeply and running close to a fence on the right running down the hill. Don’t be tempted (as we were on the recce) to veer round leftwards too much by the sight of your forest track over to the left …keep on a straight line as far as possible, eventually joining a faint track which becomes clearer, passes through a couple of gates and emerges onto the main forest track/road fairly close to the line of turbines, where you turn left.
- Looking back, Pen y Garn looks slightly more impressive, perhaps, from this side than from the other, at least looking like a hill...But it is actually the highest point in Ceredigion, excluding the Pumlumon range, and (in the UK) is officially classed as a mountain, being over 2,000 ft. However, what dominates the scene here are the massive 100m wind turbines of the Cefn Croes wind farm, close by. It should be noted that there is a proposal to build a dozen (offshore size) 180m turbines on the southern flanks of Pumlumon, to be vigorously opposed, in my opinion. The second pic below is looking back after walking some way along the forest track:
Anyway, leave the turbines behind you, and walk along the excellent track. Follow it for about 2 km, mainly level or downhill with good varied views. Around the 2km mark, look out for a broad, clear turn in the track to the right, then a sharp bend to the left. Then take the obvious fork off it to the left.
- The fork cuts off a corner, and in about 1 km this new track merges with the long-distance path encountered at the beginning of the walk. The track continues for 350 m, then bends right, where you take the green grassy path straight on into the forest (see first pic below):
- There then follows a delightful woodland walk, with small bridges provided across streams, and plenty of varied forest features to enjoy…It also crosses a couple of forest tracks or roads, before eventually emerging into open land, mostly covered in reed beds, and rather boggy. The path heads for a white cottage, crosses a final footbridge, and emerges onto the small tarmac lane from before.
- Turn right here on the lane, then immediately left off the road on the waymarked path to the right of the cottage. Keep to the left side of the meadow, following the faint path, and in a short distance find yourself in what feels like the next cottage’s garden. Hit the lane again and turn right.
- Follow the lane downhill in the direction of Cwmystwyth village for about 1.3 km, and on a final steep part just above the first houses of the village, spot a rather hidden footpath off to the left. A landmark is a metal gate on the right hand side of the road, opposite the footpath.
- Pass through a footgate (see first pic below), and follow the gently climbing path out of gorse bushes into open country. The path gets a bit steeper, then bends round sharply to the right, then left, before emerging onto a level rough grazing area with the hills on the far side of the valley prominent.
- Find a small gate in the fence to the right and a path which descends through a copse and ends up on the road to the mine, with your starting point in view ahead.
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