Some of this walk is shared with ‘Cwm Hengwm and Cwm Hyddgen from Maesnant’ on this website, with the same starting point, and the first 1.6 km along the track northeastwards towards Cwm Hengwm. But this one takes in the ascent of the characterful hill called Carn Hyddgen with its amazing all-round views, and long broad ridge overlooking Cwm Hengwm and the northern aspect of the Pumlumon range. It also includes the Cwm Hengwm path in the reverse direction, so that the rather boggy sections occur later in the day. Carn Hyddgen’s enticing wild remoteness means that there is a 3.8 km ‘walk-in’ along a rough stony bridle track before the ascent begins, then a good steep path all the way to the twin summit cairns, and even a faint path along the wide ridge to the southernmost top at 540 m; the entire walk is in Access Land. From that point there follows the most challenging part of the walk… a steep ’off piste’ descent, some sections of which are bilberry and grass-covered coarse scree, which need to be taken slowly and carefully. However, you are rewarded by a unique feeling of wildness, and a rugged landscape quite different from the rolling high plateau of the Elenydd to the south…very hard to believe you are only about 25 km from Aberystwyth as the crow flies! (pic below: Carn Hyddgen with its two large Bronze Age summit cairns)
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of starting point :
The starting point for this walk is at Maesnant, Nantymoch; private transport is required to get there. Take the small road signposted to Nantymoch from the far end of the village of Ponterwyd, on the A44 about 19 km (12 miles) east of Aberystwyth. Soon after spotting the large concrete dam over to your left, take a right turn at a t-junction, and drive up the eastern arm of the lake, until the tiny surfaced lane finally ends at a gate and turning point at Maesnant. Park in one of the lay-by areas nearby.
After parking considerately, walk through the gate leading onto the rough track…there is a another leading down to the former outdoor pursuits centre on your left.
Walk along this track for about 1.6 km; small diversions avoid you wading through a few pools of standing water that always seem to accumulate along here.
Pass some ruined farm buildings and a complex of dry stone walls, then very soon after, branch off to the right, where you have to cross the energetic stream of Nant y Llyn, coming down from Pumlumon. The makeshift stepping stones are fairly reliable, with a very large stable slab helpfully in the centre of the stream.
After this the track heads towards a distinctive copse of conifer trees. Before reaching the trees, branch left on a grassy path which leads to a footbridge over the Afon Hengwm
Cross the bridge, noticing the path rising uphill over to the right, which is your return route. But this time turn sharp left through the pools of water and tussocks on a very vague path (don’t be tempted uphill on the dry-looking rocks…it will be very tussocky to get back on track). The small wet path leads through the overgrowth and boggy bits, eventually over a dry ridge of rock then descends through the tussocks to the stony track leading up Cwm Hyddgen.
Turn right on the stony track, heading roughly north for about 2 km and rising gently overall, not forgetting to look back at the emerging view of Pumlumon. Eventually, notice the farm buildings over to your left…over a rise and gently down the other side you reach the track going to the farm off to the left, with a ‘cul de sac’ signpost(see pic bottom right below). Exactly here is the start of your ascent path to the right…not marked on the OS Map.
Follow this path uphill, steep at first, and also in a number of other stretches…Beware of ‘Slippery Pete’ up here, and follow carefully where the quad bike marks get a bit fainter and spread out. The path climbs steadily, with the rather impressive western screes of Carn Hyddgen across the gully of Nant y Garn to your right.
Eventually, the now much clearer path bends round to the right high up on the flanks of Croesau Hyddgen, and heads towards a bwlch beyond. You will see an eroded trail-bikers’ scar on the hillside to the right, apparently heading towards your summit, but ignore this… keep going until the gradient flattens out at the bwlch, and there is an obvious good path heading right through the grass and ascending the last part of the climb.
Follow the clear path to the right uphill, and pretty soon the large beehive-shaped summit cairn suddenly comes into view, with an easy grassy slope up to it.
Spend some time admiring the stupendous views in all directions from the summit cairns…the more southerly one has a great view towards Nantymoch and the Pumlumon range. To the north, spot the great distant sweep of Cadair Idris, the diminutive-looking Tarens in front, and in the distance further east, the shapely peak of Aran Fawddwy. Maybe this is a good spot for a scenic lunch stop, sheltered in the lee of one of the huge Bronze Age cairns. You can identify the line of nearby lesser but characterful peaks, all with Bronze Age cairns…from west to east…Disgwylfa Fawr, Drosgol, Banc Llechwedd mawr, Foel Uchaf.
From the southern summit cairn, head south-east…an exact bearing is not necessary. A landmark is a horseshoe shaped hollow, like a shallow crater…aim to walk along its lefthand edge, then spot a gate a little over to the left with a faint path leading to it. In low cloud, you will be certain to find the fence is you have been heading SE, then work along to the gate…the only one.
Immediately after the gate, go right on an obvious quad bike track/path heading in a general southerly direction (see pic below)…There are a few branching deviations, but keep as high as possible on the humps and on the brow of the broad ridge. There is one early point where you will find yourself on the top of a crag…you must drop down to the left here, but follow the path which climbs up again the other side, not the one that forks left slightly downhill
Keep as high as possible to the right on the faint track, and soon you will spot a small pond which is marked on the OS map 0.8 km due south of the twin cairn summit. Go to the right of the pond over the humps, and head for the craggy tops as far along here as you can go without too much descent, looking down into Cwm Hengwm. It is well worth attaining these craggy tops for the wonderful view.
Head back along a line of hillocks and rocky crags in a NNE direction along the other side of the pond…keep going in this same direction for the first part of the descent. At first it is grassy and easy, but soon the gradient increases and there are rocks and coarse scree under the short heather and bilberry vegetation. There is no one correct line of descent, but the general rule is to keep as high as possible along the small shoulders of hill as you descend, rather than being tempted down to the left into the nightmare of bog and tussocks. If in doubt, keep in mind to keep higher and to the right, and go slowly and steadily.
It doesn’t last for long (see below left), and soon you will hit the valley path, which here is very indistinct and narrow. However, the way is clear now and the descent is very gradual, with wonderful views ahead into Gwm Gwerin with Pumlumon Arwystli behind.
Follow the path round bending gently to the right, and spot a tree next to a ruin just below the path ahead (see pic below left). Here you will find the straight line of an ancient wall, and the path at first runs alongside it, then along its top (see pic below right).
After some time walking along the line of the wall, you will hit a very wet tussocky dip in the path…very soon afterwards, two peaty, boggy ways fork…a quad bike track goes straight on into the tussocks, and another branches right. Take the right branch to avoid the worst of the boggy and tussocky parts of this route. At first you push between tussocks and head gradually upwards towards the base of the hill, but soon the narrow path becomes drier and easier, although faint. It bears left, through bracken on the hillside, and parallel to the boggy areas lower down to the left. After about 250 m walking along the base of the hill, spot two large flat boulders on your left, and descend alongside their western side to rejoin the main track.
The quad bike track twists and turns drunkenly, avoiding the worst of the boggy areas, but eventually you will spot the footbridge at Point 5 ahead and to the left. You should be on the path which descends diagonally to the bridge,(on the extreme left in the pic below) where you complete the circular part of the walk.
All that is left is 1.6 km of stony track back to the starting point at Maesnant, but first relax on the banks of the gushing Afon Hengwm and take in the wild remote beauty of this place.
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